Smoke and reduction still cloud the nose of the 2021 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, but golden, aromatic, textured fruit somehow combines pink grapefruit and russet pear peel, golden Mirabelle and lime. There's wonderful ripeness channeled with absolute precision on an elegant, smooth palate. Subtle fruit echoes long, real elegance. (Sweet)

This shows very little sweetness, but is harmonious and well integrated despite the firm acidity that fuels it. Stone- and orchard-fruit notes are flecked by chrysanthemum and cardamom to create the full-spectrum. The finish is long and persistent.