This expressive red shows energy backing its cherry, raspberry, earth, sanguine and tobacco flavors. Beefy tannins put a lock on the finish, yet this is long and the ripe fruit is the lasting impression. Best from 2025 through 2045. 800 cases made, 75 cases imported. — BS

Underbrush, blue flower and new leather aromas form the nose. Tightly wound and youthfully austere, the firmly structured palate features blood orange, pomegranate and licorice alongside assertive, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. It closes on a tobacco note. Drink 2027-2042.

The 2017 Barolo Cerreta is a dark, ample wine. Black cherry, smoke, leather, licorice and incense lend gravitas to this decidedly brooding, potent Barolo. I would give the 2017 at least a few years in bottle, as the tannins are pretty imposing today.

From a sun-drenched slope in Serralunga d'Alba, the Giovanni Rosso 2017 Barolo Cerretta shows a rich and dark appearance with black cherry, dried blackberry and a touch of apricot. Those hot-vintage fruit aromas cede to spice, metallic earth, rusty nail and licorice. The wine is lovely in terms of mouthfeel, with good freshness and lasting structure. Drink Date: 2023-2038.