Tasted from magnum (the 750-milliliter bottle costs $285), the NV Brut (Gold) opens with lovely matured brioche, toast and ripe fruit flavors. Fresh, pure and elegant on the palate, with beautifully matured flavors and an elegant creaminess I don't find in the other cuvées, the "Gold" is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier as well as the vintages of 2009, 2010 and 2012. The wine reveals good grip and mineral tension and drinks well as an aperitif or with seafood and fish. Tasted from L09B8, April 2018.

An elegant, creamy Champagne, with pretty apple blossom and spice notes leading to finely meshed flavors of ripe white cherry, whole-grain toast and spun honey, framed by fresh, citrusy acidity. Drink now through 2021. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, this ripe, well-balanced wine has some toast that adds complexity and richness to the apple and lemon fruit, indicating a mature bottling. The wine in a gold-foil bottle is one of five made by the Cattier house for rapper and entrepreneur Jay Z's Armand de Brignac Empire brand with the "Ace of Spades" logo.

Light gold. Musky orchard and pit fruit aromas are brightened by hints of lemon zest and ginger. Ripe pear and honey flavors show a touch of heat and pick up a toasty quality with aeration. Finishes soft, warm and slightly loose, with a hint of bitter peach pit, echoing toastiness and decent length. This bottling actually impressed me a few years ago but that wasn't the case this go-round.