The 2015 Barbaresco Starderi Vürsù is a wine of towering stature, girth and power. The wine's tannic presence is very evident, and that undeniable structure is broad and underlying. I would suggest putting this bottle aside for at least five more years before popping the cork. The beauty here is that the tannins are integrated and never astringent. Instead, they act like a corset that ties the wine together in all the right places.

A core of black cherry is accented by eucalyptus, juniper, wild rosemary and stony, chalky notes in this tightly wound red. Offers a firm tannic backbone, offset by plenty of sweet fruit. The long finish indicates potential. Best from 2022 through 2035. 2,500 cases made, 50 cases imported. — BS

Grilled herb, forest floor, dark spice and menthol aromas come together on this. Oak-driven spice powers the austere tightly knit palate, while dried cherry, orange zest and powdered sage stay in the background. Extremely firm close-grained tannins clench the finish.